The first person we meet in bShabla/b is the oldest fisherman in town. He's shirtless, up on a ladder, painting a sign. Lyuba gets his attention and asks if he'd like to talk to us. He turns to us, and we see his broad grin gleaming against ... Not only is he the oldest fisherman in town--he jokes--he's the owner of the only bhotel/b. Climbing back up his ladder and beginning to paint the next letter, he looks at his brush, waves it in our direction, and tells us that now he's ...